2009 Château La Tour de By, Haut Médoc, En primeur, 12-bottle case

Grown-up claret with good cassis and lovely, correct structure.

Within 300 meters of the Gironde, and 15 meters above sea level, global warming might yet have its evil way. The eponymous tower was built on the foundations of a lighthouse, which in turn was built on an ancient windmill. In 1876 the impressive château was added. The 75 hectares of vines have been wholly owned by Marc Pagès since 1999, and he now runs the estate with the help of his son Xavier. The average age of the vines -Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (25%) and Caberent Franc (5%), is about 35 years old, and they are moving towards organic status. The lay of the land allows the harvest to machine-picked, and the wine is fermented in a mix of wood and steel. Only 20% of the barrels are replaced each year, so new oak is never a dominant feature here.

Recommend to a friend Add to favourites